Good spotting is what separates an average dry cleaner from a great one. The right spotting agents, used in the right order, remove stains that the machine alone never will, without damaging the fabric. This guide explains the main stain families and which spotting agents to reach for.
Why stain type matters
Every stain belongs to a family, and each family responds to a different chemistry. Using the wrong agent can set a stain permanently, especially heat or the wrong pH on protein stains. Identify the stain first, then choose the agent.
1. Protein stains: blood, milk, egg, food
Protein stains respond to protein formulas used cool, never hot. QwikGo is designed for food, blood and milk stains and is safe on delicate colours and fabrics.
2. Tannin stains: coffee, tea, wine, juice
Tannin stains come from plant-based drinks and foods. They need a tannin formula, usually applied on the spotting board before cleaning. Ask our team for the right tannin agent for your solvent.
3. Oily and grease stains
Oil, grease, cosmetics and tar respond to paint, oil and grease (POG) removers. TarGo EF removes oil-based stains and flushes freely in PERC, hydrocarbon, GreenEarth or K4. SEITZ Purasol works as a pre- and post-spotting agent for grease-bound stains, adhesives, paint, wax and ballpoint ink.
4. Ink stains
InkGo removes all types of ink from all types of fabric and has been reformulated to remove its odour. Always test on a hidden seam first.
5. Rust and metal stains
Rust needs a dedicated rust remover. RustGo works fast but contains hydrofluoric acid, which is corrosive and poisonous; read the SDS and wear proper PPE. Fluoride Free RustGo is an alternative without hydrofluoric acid, and SEITZ Ferrol N dissolves rust, verdigris and other metal oxides with an oxalic acid base.
Dry side vs wet side spotting agents
Spotting agents fall into two broad groups. Dry side agents are solvent-based and target oily and greasy soils such as cosmetics, paint, tar and ink. Wet side agents are water-based and target protein, tannin and other water-soluble stains such as food, drinks and perspiration.
When you cannot identify a stain, many experienced spotters work on the dry side first, flush and dry the area, and only then move to the wet side. This avoids setting an oily stain with water and keeps the fabric safer.
Spotting before or after cleaning?
Pre-spotting before the machine cycle helps with heavy or known stains, especially collars, cuffs and food spills. Post-spotting after cleaning deals with whatever remains. A good routine uses both: a quick pre-spot at tagging, then a careful inspection and post-spot before finishing, because heat from pressing can set any stain that is left.
Match spotting agents to your solvent
Not every spotting agent suits every dry cleaning solvent. Some products are made for PERC, while others flush freely in hydrocarbon, GreenEarth or K4. If you change solvents, review your spotting board at the same time. Our dry cleaning solvent comparison explains how each solvent behaves, and our team can suggest compatible spotting agents for your machine.
Best practices for using spotting agents
- Identify the stain family before you apply anything.
- Test on a hidden area, especially on silks and dyed fabrics.
- Work from the outside of the stain inwards, and flush well.
- Follow each product SDS and wear gloves and eye protection.
- Do not use spotting agents that contain PERC. They are prohibited under the federal PERC regulations.
- Pre-treat cuffs and collars with a cuff and collar stain remover.
Building your spotting board
A complete board covers protein, tannin, oily, ink and rust stains. The SEITZ 7 Bottle Spotting Kit is an easy way to start. Browse all spotting agents for dry cleaning and laundry spotting agents, or contact us for training and recommendations.